The seagulls flying around it and the fishermen mending their nets near the pier perfectly match the image of the solitary, tall tower on the sand. The symbol of Ouranoupolis, the last “postcard” taken by those boarding the ship to Mount Athos, seems to have been there since the 12th century and is the largest and best-preserved tower in Halkidiki. The complex consists of the Byzantine tower, the small fortified enclosure known as “barbakas,” and the arsenale of 1865.
It belonged to the monastic estate of Prosforion (modern-day Ouranoupolis), the initial core of which was held by the Vatopedi Monastery as early as 1018. Scattered information about what happened in the sturdy building is drawn from sources, as the excavation research has not been completed. We know that in 1379, the Despot of Thessalonica, John Palaiologos, was hosted here, that it suffered significant damage in the 1585 earthquake, and that in 1858 it was uninhabited and abandoned – an image that, in fact, one would encounter throughout Halkidiki at the time. Also, it is likely that it was set on fire in 1821, as there are testimonies that in 1858 it was in poor condition and uninhabited.
The current form of the tower resulted from the extensive repairs and reconstruction that followed. In 1924, after the population exchange, refugees from Asia Minor settled in the areas of the monastic estate and founded Ouranoupolis. Over time, houses were built and gradually incorporated into a unified architectural complex. In 1928, the Loch couple, Joyce and Sidney, arrived as members of humanitarian organizations. They settled in the tower and provided significant assistance to the refugees and later to the earthquake victims.
Architectural-Historical Phases
The building showcases at least three main architectural-historical phases. The first phase, the Byzantine (11th – 12th century), includes the lower, stone-built section, without the two upper floors. In the next phase, which is dated to the period of Ottoman rule and likely after the devastating earthquake of 1585, three more floors were added, of which two are still preserved today. The third phase includes the interior wood paneling of the building and the roof, which has been preserved to this day and was part of the reconstruction works completed in 1862. The external slanted supporting wall (scarpa) was added after the reconstruction.
On the eastern side of the tower is attached the barbakas, the fortified enclosure, which seems to be an addition from the early Ottoman period with later repairs. The modern living and storage spaces inside the barbakas were delineated in the mid-19th century. Northwest of the tower is the building of the arsenale, which was constructed in 1865 along with a quay that no longer exists today. It consists of the semi-basement space for storing the boat of the monastic estate, the storage areas on the mezzanine, and the upper floor with the balcony (chayati). There were also other buildings: warehouses, barns, an olive press, and wells. Today, only the copper workshop (chalcadion) and the small workshop (kolligadiko) are preserved.
ΟΙ LOCH
The Australian writer and journalist Joice NanKivell traveled to Europe to cover the events of World War I. In 1919, she married the Scottish journalist and writer Sydney Loch, and together they continued to travel and live in various countries around the world, aiming to provide humanitarian aid. They were members of the Quaker religious group, also known as the Religious Society of Friends. On one of their trips, they went to Thessaloniki and then reached Ouranoupoli. In 1928, they decided to settle, initially on the island of Ammouliani and later in the tower of Prosforio, which captivated them.
The older residents of the area still remember them and tell stories about “Madame” and Sydney, who helped during the difficult times after the 1932 earthquake. They would run all day long to distribute medicine to the refugees, and at night, they would take their lanterns and visit the homes of people in need. Their great contribution was in the field of weaving, as Loch created designs based on motifs from the frescoes of Mount Athos and Persian carpets, while Joice taught the women of the Asia Minor refugees, who were already experienced in weaving, how to dye wool with natural colors. Both passed away in Ouranoupoli, Sydney in 1954 and Joice in 1982, at the age of 95.
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